Category Archives: International Scout

The Scout people, on the other hand, noticed the Scout

https://slate.com/human-interest/2023/11/jeff-bezos-and-lauren-sanchez-vogue-photoshoot.html

FWIW, you read up on Bezos’ biographical details, and it does not appear he is a Scout poseur. This ranch he’s got in south TX was his grandfather’s, and his grandfather there had Scouts back in the day, as one would on a ranch (saw that in a 1999 article on Bezos). This one pictured ya figure might be the Scout his grandfather had, with a $150k frame off resto. Anyway, Bezos is what he is but his Ralph Lauren rancher aesthetic is somewhat organic. He’s a Texan.

Scout people have a Kremlinologist’s skill at IDing the year of one from a minimalist picture like that. I’m not that good with the 60s Scout. I can only say it’s an 80 or 800 from 61-71.

Bezos is a Princeton grad hey. The sentences following are not meant to talk shit about Princeton or having gone there, things of which I am generally uninformed. I just figure, these days, you can go there if you are truly wealthy and a B+ student or better, and then… I don’t even know how you separate yourself from the pack as an elite student. That’s a parsing exercise when they are choosing one 1600 SAT kid from another. And ya know, yeah, I’m thinking of the competition amongst tiger kids raised by tiger moms and tiger dads.

What you can say in the analysis of Bezos is.. he went there on merit as the child of mandarin class govt and oil industry types, people who were doing well enough and had the worldliness to understand he should go there such that he had valedictorian chops. IDK if he gets admitted today as that kid with the competition being what it is. His experience there and then in consulting obviously made him, though you can also perhaps observe he’d be only a pedestrian billionaire if one of his staffers hadn’t come up with Prime.

ScoutBilld: same day truck as mine

4/25/75

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-international-harvester-scout-ii-15/

Optioned a hair differently. My seat is not as cool (and I took it out because I had to redo the floor, and thus, the seat belt anchors). Mine has the beefy Chrysler Torqueflite 3 speed auto, this one has the great T18 4 speed. Mine has an open rear diff, that one apparently has a track loc

Currently: Mine’s a shitbox, that one isn’t.

Going through a thing where I can’t help myself buying liquidation tire sets. I’d bought a set of 15 inch slot mags because I wanted slot mags. Then 31s on 15 whitespokes because I wanted to see where I was in lift and clearance. And now modern tires on 16s cuz I kind of wanted 16 inch rims all along so that I could more easily nab cheap takeoffs on the CL / FB market.

And so it goes.

Scout Billd: Leaf spring shackle kit

Scouts have some built in bad road manners, and they get worse with age. This… it had terrible road manners when I last drove it. Fall 2020, when I started “fixing”: front leaf spring shackles were so easy to get to, thought I’d start with a modern-ish front shackle kit, thick laser cut steel setup the contemporary Jeep crowd is into.

So I did the front. And actually, I thought this truck had some legit plow sag in the front springs, and I’d managed to level that with these shackles. See 1993 photo.

Actually not! I got done with my body mount fixes a couple weeks ago and such that the body was now on the frame properly I found my front end was 2 inches higher than the bed by virtue of having 2 inch front shackle kit up there! So! I needed to do the rears.

What you get from $100 from IH Parts America. Really a must if you’re putting a truck on the road. You’d be shocked at the flimsiness of the originals (I didn’t snap a pic).

What yer gonna need to do the job:

  • half inch SAE ratchets, half inch SAE crescent wrenches from 5/8 – 15/16
  • breaker bar
  • Energy Suspension spring bushing kit for the Scout II (another $50 on ebay)
  • great big 1/2 inch impact. I use electric.
  • Sawzall to cut the old steel sleeves from the spring eyes
  • big screwdriver
  • ball joint separator (loan it for free from the auto parts store)
  • big floor jack, semi pro quality

I’m 54 and dad bod strong but easily winded, especially rolling around on the floor. 1 hr disassembly each side, 5 minutes assembly on each side. And so it goes.

Ah… I never really intended to lift this truck.  I think I started out with an intellectual disdain for lifted trucks.  Now, I got over that.  But still, it was last thing on my list for this, just cuz I could take it or leave it.  Well I did the shackles and did the body mounts and went up additionally with  1 1/2 inches in body pucks as a mere leveling exercise.  I netted out 4 inches in lift in all of that.  I could easily get 33’s in there now (have a ratty set of 31s on). It’s tall, kinda tall.

Where I’m at with Sandy the Scout

I bought this Scout in fall of 93. It had actually been in the family of someone I went to high school with at Pony High, but did not know well, Sandy [CommonAngloYankeeSurname]. I knew I had seen this Scout being driven to school when I was in high school… Sandy was the one who was driving it. And um, I have a feeling she had sex in this truck in ya know 1987-88-89. So the Scout also gets to be called Sandy. In honor.

Sandy [CommonAngloYankeeSurname] is doing fine far as I know, but I haven’t seen her since the day I bought the truck. Maybe I’ll run into to her one of these next years when I have the truck on the road, who knows.

Alright, where are we…

Most of all what I did over the winter was cutting shit out. Floors and fenders and whatnot. This extended somewhat into the summer. I didn’t start welding until after we had grad partied my youngest.

I do have 4 new cab mounts in. Driver side sub floor is in. Driver side floor is in. Driver seat is in. Doors are rehung, and they close.

Passenger rocker is in. I need to do the sub floor and buy the pan for the passenger side.

I want to be driving this next summer. I could hardly care about paint. I just want something that looks like a truck that doesn’t have holes in it and is roadworthy. We’ll worry about paint in 2024.

For winter.

  • Turn the truck around and back it into the garage with the bed facing my shop space.
  • Put in the passenger side sub floor.
  • Put in the body puck kit.
  • Cut out the bed.
  • Scrape and paint the frame under the bed
  • Connect the ebrake and run the rear axle brake lines to the MC.
  • Tack in a new piece of 16 gauge diamond plate for the new bed.
  • True that to the new tailgate sill and truss it to the frame.
  • Put the gas tank back in and get it functional.
  • Shackle kit for the rear axle.

Scout Bill’d: cab mounts

I got a lot to say about Scouts, in terms of “laying down of knowledge that would be useful and google-able”. I wouldn’t mind starting my own build thread at Binder Planet OR doing Youtube vids. I kinda aspire to that as a “cool thing”. But it isn’t a burning “to do” for me and it would require, for me, a whole new regimen of composition. And I already got this wp blog. So it goes here, at my generalist blog. I’m going to lay down the knowledge. If I want to transcribe it later at BP or yT, it’s done.

But I had come up with a name. Scout Bill’d. Get it.

I got 4 new cab mounts in this bitch. They’re in, did it. I think I been working on this Scout seriously since Sept, 2020. I got this truck in what, 1993? It had bad cab mounts then. The universal, governing, running joke is a guy who won’t sell his parked shitbox because he’s “going to restore it someday.” Well alright, I started… I got to “someday”, having parked the truck 17, 18 years prior.

I did worry about the wisdom of keeping that commitment to myself though, and it was because of the cab mounts. They were shot to non-existent. Ya know, the money expenditure.. and… am I the guy who makes it a worse truck than it is now and can’t fix it and basically can’t then liquidate it for meaningful money? Am I going to kill this truck? But then, you’re sitting there in 2020 and you got a vintage truck that’s worth 2k if you look under it, and thing is I didn’t need the 2K, and I was emotionally attached to the truck. So I was going to fix it.

Just saying, I had doubts. Doubts I could do the job properly.

Well I fixed it. I had most of the tools and what I didn’t have, I could easily afford cuz the magic of Chinesium (Menard’s / Harbor Freight). I had a bit of the knowledge, and what I didn’t have I got from aforementioned Binder Planet and yT.

So the Scout community is amazing for the fix and restoration knowledge stuff they’ve canonized. Encylopaedic, amazing stuff. What I have to say about cab mounts is: the Scout community has a best practice knowledge kernel around cab amounts that says buy them from Super Scout Specialists, cut your old ones out, and weld your new ones in…. And this should not actually be the superseding piece of insight on the topic.

Here’s the thing: those SSS cab mounts, which are OEM copies, are exceedingly difficult for handy amateurs to install properly on a rusty Scout to the point where I don’t think it’s very often the proper remedy for said rusty Scout. If you have a nice-ish Scout and the mounts are easy cut outs – or – you’re doing rotisserie restoration… yeah, do the SSS cab mounts.

If you got a rusty Scout and no rocker panels and floors, contemplating putting those SSS cab mounts in is beguiling to the point it may make you think you can’t save your truck. I had bought a set of the SSS cab mounts cuz I just assumed that was “the way”. You go to put them in… my floors were so gone, I was like, “what do they even weld to and how do you know they’re welded in at the proper height such that you might tack them on “somewhere?”. I thought… “This can’t possibly work, I can’t save this truck.”

The answer is, you don’t use the SSS cab mounts, not for a rusty truck that’s not a super best effort restoration. If you have a totally rusted out floor, and you want to merely get your truck back on the road in a safe way: you go to the metal store and buy some 1 x 3, 14 gauge tubing. You cut 2 foot pieces, you need 4 of them.

In the front, you’re going to run your pieces from the bottom of the A pillar to the corner edge of the transmission tunnel, directly over the cab mount flange on the frame. You stick ‘em with a combination of robust bolts and welding.

In the rear cab, you on each side cut out the existing mount spot that is integral to the rear cab, under cab support. So what you’re left with on that is a center support that is factory tubing, and you’ve exposed open ends on each side. You slot your back 1 x 3s to fit those openings, and you get as tight a fit as you can. You sleeve those 1 x 3s in there, and you run those to the B pillars on each side, directly over the mid rear frame cab mount flanges. Weld them in.

Aforementioned Scout community, maybe car community as whole, actually has this prevailing moral disapproval for repairs “not done right”. Which is paradoxical such that guys might make bubba fixes to their bubba trucks. Well, these tubing cab mounts end up looking a hair bubba or more, particularly the rears. The question though is, are they strong and safe?

Yeah they are. I don’t mean to be flippant, and I’m cognizant of what I don’t know as an amateur… but as a handy guy I know there’s no way they couldn’t be strong enough. You’re putting in a beefier piece of metal (14 ga vs factory 16 ga) and you’re actually welding it extravagantly compared to factory spot welds that prioritized efficiency of material and effort in the mfg process.

These cab mounts work. Do them that way, and then find your references for floor and rocker placement, and build to that. A detail worth noting, you may end up needing different height body pucks to level the cab front to back, where proper installation of SSS cab mounts assumes you use pucks that are all the same height. Well… small price to pay. I just think there’s no way the handy amateur tacks those replica cab mounts in “in spec” vertical heights. You’ll end up adjusting puck heights anyway. You know you’re level when the doors close properly.

AND THEN EVEN BETTER: you got those 1 x 3’s under there as cab mounts, then with a sleeve cut you can tie your new rocker panels to them under the A and B pillars. Gives them more structural support than the way they actually left the factory.

Gusset the shit out of stuff from your new supports to wherever on your shitbox will take a good weld. The more elegantly you can do it of course, the more credible your restoration job looks. That small stuff does add up.

What you need…

Misc: Big Jack. probably a $150 item, IDK

Demolition and fab: Big 7 inch cut off, grinder, sawzall, welder. You can get it all for less than $400.

Material: $80 in steel, 1 x 3 tubing, 8 ft of it.

Cab mounts are done.  It’s a big deal.

In which we go to Cloquet to get some cheap Trailblazer seats

From a north woods bubba who is wealthy in junked Trailblazers and I then put them in my Scout and it works because my bride’s father in years past gave me insight how to fabricate little things from rectangular tubing like for instance little seat bases.

Coffee was in Taylor’s Falls.